Once the new door bolts were in the mailbox, I then loosely hung the doors on the Land Rover. One
by one, I tried to line up the doors, but, totally unsuccessful. Looking back at the original pictures
the doors never did line up properly.

   Now I have a galvanized bulkhead , that has warped a little, realistically, I'm attempting mission
impossible. So, as close as possible will have to be acceptable.

   One door would line up too high at the back and the other would be too low. I measured the door
openings and there was a difference from side to side and from top to bottom. In order to get a more
equal door opening, the bulkhead had to be adjusted in place. I loosened all the mounting bolts to the
bulkhead, front fenders and the front radiator grill panel.  Next I placed a recovery rope around the
wind screen pivot points, then fed the rope through my work bench, which is bolted to the garage wall.

   Then I sat on the floor with my back against the work bench. Placing my feet on the bumper, I began
to rock the Land Rover. Every time I got it to move further from me, I placed a block of wood next to
the tire, with a piece of pipe that I had in my left hand.

   There were a few creaks and groans from the Land Rover ( I did the groaning ) , but I was able to
adjust the lower portion of the bulkhead by 3 mm. Which then gave me a whopping 8 mm extra clearance
at the top of the door opening.

    With the Land Rover firmly in one place, I tightened up all of the front mounting bolts. Now I was
able to hang the doors more evenly. Its strange, the door openings are now equal, but I can't get the doors
to line up perfectly straight. At the bulkhead they are even, but at the rear tub, they are either too high
or too low.The rear tub is sitting properly on the frame mounts.  But anyways, the doors are hung better
than when I bought the Land Rover, so I'm pleased.

    Now with the doors firmly in place, they close with a pleasing firm clunk without any rattles.

   

    Only a few months ago, I installed a viscous coupling fan, which I'm happy with. But, anyways, I decided
to replace it with a electric fan unit.

    For a fan, I'm using a blower unit from a Citroen BX 19. Included with the fan was the shroud , which
 made the installation easier. The two specific reasons why I went with this fan assembly is; 1) its a blower,
2) the shroud and fan housing are made of a plastic/resin compound. Therefore, there should be no
corrosion against the radiator. I simply made 2 securing brackets that I bolted to the shroud and then to
4 mounting bolts for the radiator. Within the shroud, I used the top original position, but an the bottom
I made 2 securing brackets that are bolted to the shroud and then to the fan unit.

 

    Next was the thermostat sender unit assembly. I used a small piece of 43mm X 3mm pipe. In the pipe
I drilled a 20mm hole and then welded a 22mm bolt over the hole. Take your time with the welding, so
you don't warp the threads and that you don't have any leaks. Once the welding was finished, I then cut
down the pipe to length, so that it would fit into my top radiator hose. I removed approx. 2.5 cm from
top radiator hose, so that there was no kinks in the hose, once the fitting was installed.

    As for a thermostat sender unit, I'm using a Saab 9000 sender unit that is rated for 87 degrees to
92 degrees.

    Next was the wiring. I asked for some advice from some friends and searched the internet. I was
surprised at how many different ways there is to wire in an electrical fan unit. So, I decided that the
first two that matched, I would go with that.

   

    After a week of searching, I finally found two that matched, I drew a wiring diagram, that you can see
to the right. Following along, here's what I did;

 

    a) Ran a power supply to the switch from the fuse box. ( Its your option if you want a permanent feed
to the switch or just power to the switch when the ignition is in the ON position )

    b) Ran a wire from the switch to the thermostat sender unit.

    c) From the thermostat sender unit , connect it to position 85 on the relay unit.

    d) From position 86 on the relay unit, to a ground.

    e) From position 30 on the relay unit, to a power supply in the engine compartment, with an inline fuse.

    f) From position 87 on the relay, to red wire in the fan unit.

    g) And then I grounded the fan unit.

 

    I recommend that you use heavy wire for the fan unit, because it uses a lot of Amps. With the electrical
fan installed, there has been a dramatic reduction of noise in the engine compartment. The engine heats up
much faster and the heat that flows through the demisters! Never have I felt so much hot air flow through
the demisters. This was an easy conversion that cost little, do it, you won't be disappointed.

 

 

 

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